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Monday, 28 Jan 08
Photo by James Q. Martin
The people of South Africa work hard. The climbers are not granted the luxuries of their American equivalent. There is a strong cultural and economic drive towards providing for a family. There are fewer people involved and even fewer women. For a people that grew up in the chaos of apartheid ending and a country boiling in anger, climbing has a hard time elbowing other things to the front of the priority line. Not to mention that the Rand has suffered in the chaos. It was worth more than a dollar until 1982. Now it is back from its worst at 13 Rand to 1 USD, but still suffering at 7 Rand to 1 USD.
This lack of climbers allowed us to sweep in and climb some first ascents. There are a few famous South African climbers like Ed February, Andy DeKlerk, and Clinton Martinego who have put up countless first ascents, but there are still many to pick. We went to an area called Blyde where we put up three first ascents and one First Free Ascent in a period of four days. We did, however, pay the South African toll: hot sun, rashes, liquid poo, and endless bushwhacking.
We spent our last weekend with Tristan. This South African is best described by negatives. He does not eat, does not sleep, and does not drink water or wine. I decided a closer look was warranted — he must eat sometime. I saw him all over the magazines, and he had an inspiring presence in the South African climbing video. He was born without a fully developed right arm or hand, yet you would never know it by the way he climbs. He blames his excellent footwork for his climbing prowess, yet I must credit his mighty will. Never tell this man he cannot do something. (Or tell him and ensure that it will be done.) He showed us the caves of Tafelburg where we set up camp for our last two days. My highlight was the first female ascent of a heady 23R route of which Tristan had boldly done the third ascent. I still cannot fathom trying to do it without the ability to crimp with my right hand. I, after working the moves and the gear, got on lead and still faltered under the high consequences. Finally after many minutes had ticked by and my shaking was about to end in testing the rare and tiny pieces of protection, something deep within sent me toward the jug. I sent. It was a great finale to an amazing climbing adventure in South Africa.
The specific moves of “Danger Mouse” will be forgotten. The cold belays on “Celestial Journey” will fade, but the incredible people and kindness will remain. Despite the trauma of the people of South Africa, of injured climbers, of great loss, and of cultural destruction, we all still yearn for that innocent wild. These people have shown me how great odds can be overcome. Climbers cultivate the power to do this. Climbing provided a great lens through which to see some of South Africa.
South Africa eye-opening climbing: Part 3
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Photo by James Q. Martin
The people of South Africa work hard. The climbers are not granted the luxuries of their American equivalent. There is a strong cultural and economic drive towards providing for a family. There are fewer people involved and even fewer women. For a people that grew up in the chaos of apartheid ending and a country boiling in anger, climbing has a hard time elbowing other things to the front of the priority line. Not to mention that the Rand has suffered in the chaos. It was worth more than a dollar until 1982. Now it is back from its worst at 13 Rand to 1 USD, but still suffering at 7 Rand to 1 USD.
This lack of climbers allowed us to sweep in and climb some first ascents. There are a few famous South African climbers like Ed February, Andy DeKlerk, and Clinton Martinego who have put up countless first ascents, but there are still many to pick. We went to an area called Blyde where we put up three first ascents and one First Free Ascent in a period of four days. We did, however, pay the South African toll: hot sun, rashes, liquid poo, and endless bushwhacking.
We spent our last weekend with Tristan. This South African is best described by negatives. He does not eat, does not sleep, and does not drink water or wine. I decided a closer look was warranted — he must eat sometime. I saw him all over the magazines, and he had an inspiring presence in the South African climbing video. He was born without a fully developed right arm or hand, yet you would never know it by the way he climbs. He blames his excellent footwork for his climbing prowess, yet I must credit his mighty will. Never tell this man he cannot do something. (Or tell him and ensure that it will be done.) He showed us the caves of Tafelburg where we set up camp for our last two days. My highlight was the first female ascent of a heady 23R route of which Tristan had boldly done the third ascent. I still cannot fathom trying to do it without the ability to crimp with my right hand. I, after working the moves and the gear, got on lead and still faltered under the high consequences. Finally after many minutes had ticked by and my shaking was about to end in testing the rare and tiny pieces of protection, something deep within sent me toward the jug. I sent. It was a great finale to an amazing climbing adventure in South Africa.
The specific moves of “Danger Mouse” will be forgotten. The cold belays on “Celestial Journey” will fade, but the incredible people and kindness will remain. Despite the trauma of the people of South Africa, of injured climbers, of great loss, and of cultural destruction, we all still yearn for that innocent wild. These people have shown me how great odds can be overcome. Climbers cultivate the power to do this. Climbing provided a great lens through which to see some of South Africa.
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